After our first visit to Bosna, I thought to myself, If Dracula ran a sports bar, Bosna would be it. It’s not exactly goth, but seriously hardcore in other ways. Then I fantasized about how dark and mysterious the place was.

Having eaten there twice now – the second time using only my hands – I can’t understand what drove me to such nonsense. Bosna, if a bit stark at first glance (the barred windows, for instance, hint at something unpleasant at the end of the meal), is a beacon of light, a shining temple of joy, love, and generosity. A place that takes in awkward office weaklings and turns them into vigorous eating champions.

What I did, however, observe on both occasions, and what ultimately sums up Bosna’s contribution to a better world, is simplicity. You basically get a plate of meat and bread with a glass of water. It sounds like prison food, but it isn’t – far from it. Not overly sophisticated, perhaps, but what I got on both occasions was a heartfelt and generous serving of Bosnian home cooking: cevapcici, onions, kajmak – a truly divine sour cream based on milk from a cow, goat, sheep, or, in fact, water buffalo – and ajvar, a relish made of sweet bell peppers, oil, and salt.

The feast Bosna bestowed upon us would make even the most seasoned competitive eater blush. We shared our meals exclusively with construction workers on both occasions. But it’s not just about the sheer volume. Bosna’s food is, if a bit lacking in refinement and almost entirely, it seems, in the veggie department (which is why we cannot hand out the full five stars), plate-licking good, no doubt about it.

As icing on the cake, the menu helpfully explains crucial elements of Bosnian cuisine, and it’s always nice to learn a little something about the food you’re eating.

• Name and address: Bosna, Hisingsgatan 21
• Cuisine: Bosnian with other Balkan influences
• Walking distance from Zenseact: 10 mins
• Price: 99 sek
• Rating: 4/5 NCAP stars (Norra Älvstranden Culinary Assessment Program)

We’ll return shortly with another review. In the meantime, heed the great Robert Frost’s advice and choose the road less traveled – a wise gastronomic approach and an outstanding professional mantra for every Zenseactian.