Peaky fockin’ bloinders! The smell of grease roams Lindholmspiren like an evil mist, finding its way into every air-conditioned office, drawing every shadow dweller out into the open. Resistance is futile; we know what we have to do even if it violates our fundamental lunch principle. It’s fish ‘n’ chips time!

Food trucks are interesting from a cultural perspective. With a relatively low investment compared to a brick-and-mortar restaurant, they can experiment with fusion cuisine, gourmet twists on classic street food, and novel cooking techniques. Some offer an impressive variety of food. Many specialize in specific types of cuisine, often prepared by cooks with a passion and expertise for that style of food.

Being generous about it, you could say that food trucks reflect the cultural diversity of a city. In multicultural urban areas, you might find food trucks offering everything from Korean tacos to Indian dosas, from New Orleans beignets to Middle Eastern shawarma. As such, they can be an accessible introduction to different cultures and cuisines.

That’s grand. But we’re not quite getting that vibe at Lindholmen.

In fact, the food trucks here seem to do the opposite. Instead of offering eye-opening adventure, they do little more than cement culinary stereotypes; each truck crams as many cultural attributes as possible into a limited space to persuade customers they are the real deal. Flags, merchandise, music, and a menu comprising only that cuisine’s most cherished and well-known dishes. It almost feels like you’re buying food from a souvenir shop.

Case in point: A Taste of Britain (from whence the smell of grease originates). The kitchen is worn down like a Birmingham pub, the fryer level at Defcon 5. The vendor is garbed in the Union Jack, and the truck is striped with the theme from the popular Peaky Blinders show. A “Shelby Company Ltd.” sign lets any visitor know that the truck is under protection from none other than the notorious Thomas Shelby himself. A sign reads “Newcastle.” And so on.

According to goteborg.com, owner Robert Nelson offers “authentic Shepherd’s pie, Ploughman’s Lunch and other British classics such as deliciously crispy Fish and chips.” Many Brits consider fish ‘n’ chips the unofficial national dish of the UK, and it’s still a big part of the food scene there today. And in the realm of classics and simplicity, a Taste of Britain delivers.

The fish ‘n’ chips is greasy, salty, and vinegary, with a nice batter on the crispy, fresh fish, accompanied by a slice of lemon – all on a tray lined with sandwich paper, printed in the style of a newspaper. (Back in the day, like during the rough times of World War II or when folks were just plain broke, real newspapers were used. They were good for keeping the food warm and soaking up grease. But during the 1980s, new health rules said adieu to wrapping fish ‘n’ chips in newsprint.)

Overall, it’s a joyful eating experience. We got what we came for. And food truck eating is festival eating, regardless of what they serve. It’s not about the food. It’s practical and fun, and there’s this community vibe that comes with ordering from a food truck. Plus, it often means you’re supporting a small, local business.

In this case, however, it’s just a little… uninspired. It would have been more intriguing with a local version. I’d happily test a truck called “A Taste of Sheffield.” On the other hand, it would be equally fascinating to see the menu from “A Taste of Europe.” Still, we give A Taste of Britain a four-star rating.

• Name: A Taste of Britain
• Cuisine: Yeah, you guessed it.
• Walking distance from Zenseact: 5 min (it’s by the boats)
• Price: 140 sek
• Rating: 4/5 NCAP stars (Norra Älvstranden Culinary Assessment Program)

Great food, conviction, pride, humor, community, and fast service. We would have given it the full five stars if we’d each gotten one more fish fillet. The serving was too small for 140 SEK. It felt like we were paying for the diesel. (Which is probably part of the contract, but never a good feeling.)

Read more about Gothenburg’s food truck scene: https://www.goteborg.com/en/guides/foodtrucks-in-gothenburg.

We’ll return shortly with another review. In the meantime, heed the great Robert Frost’s advice and choose the road less traveled – a wise gastronomic approach and an outstanding professional mantra for every Zenseactian.